For anyone familiar with oysters, it’s clear that the northern United States is celebrated for its exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast earn their fair share of admiration.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeast, and you’ll likely encounter skepticism—wrinkled noses, pursed lips, and disapproving shakes of the head. “Inferior oysters from warmer waters? Count me out!” I’ll admit, I was once part of that crowd.
That is until I had a fortuitous introduction to the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs who are committed to changing the narrative around Southern oysters, enhancing community value, and improving environmental health.
They kindly invited me to spend a few days working at their farms. Armed with rubber boots and ample sunscreen, I set out to explore the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
Under a clear sky and gentle morning breeze, I’m welcomed by Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company to South Tampa Bay. Reid Ballard, his young colleague, takes us toward their leasehold as Smith reveals that he and his wife Maura casually ventured into the oyster farming business one day.
“Seafood is a staple in my family, so pursuing this path felt natural,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the serene waters and bright horizons. “And honestly, the view can’t be beaten.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast predominantly occurs in estuarine systems, where tidal movements continuously infuse the waters with nutrients. Floating cages packed with mesh bags containing oysters at various developmental stages bob in front of us.
Today’s main activity is harvesting. Lifting cages and extracting flattened bags is more physically demanding than expected. Marine life clings to the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish making the environment lively. “Our farm has become a floating reef,” Smith notes.
After collecting the bags, the oysters undergo tumbling through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters while directing those ready for harvest. Many smaller oysters are earmarked for a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to help bolster wild stocks crucial for ecosystem health. Smith clarifies: “Cultivation is for consumption, while restoration supports the environment.”
The labor-intensive process of sorting and cleaning allows for moments of candid conversation. Ballard shares his motivation: “Fostering an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and nurtures habitat growth has highlighted the significant work that remains to preserve our environment.”
Smith reflects, saying, “To run a business that adds so much positivity to people’s lives is a blessing. Have you ever noticed how everyone is smiling when they eat oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
On the dock of the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the crystal-clear waters, she shares her long-held enthusiasm for aquaculture, beginning at just 14 during her time as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her academic background in environmental sciences enhances her love for her profession. “There’s nothing like being on the boat early in the morning, enveloped by all the natural sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing to breathe,” she expresses.
At the dock, her team gears up, sorting and inspecting the harvested oysters; any damaged ones are returned to the shallow waters where various fish species gather to feed. Mariano emphasizes the positive local impact of the farm, stating, “Oysters provide a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile marine life; effectively turning the farm into its own ecosystem. We’ve generated numerous job opportunities within our community for individuals of varying ages.”
The challenges
Among the challenges, mortality events and intricate regulations can be problematic, but weather conditions pose the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith recalls how Helene destroyed a full year’s yield. “It requires perseverance, effort, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We adapt and keep pushing forward,” he explains.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association is invaluable; Executive Director Adrianne Johnson indicates their goal: “Shellfish farmers exemplify hard work, resilience, and innovative spirit. We aim to support this flourishing industry in the South and encourage people to engage with it. Try Southern oysters, support local farmers, and enjoy the taste.”
Despite the numerous hardships, Ballard from Calusa reflects on the experience: “I wouldn’t trade my job for anything.”
This article was first featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
