For those familiar with oysters, it’s no secret that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while hailing the Kumamotos and Hama Hama from the West Coast.
However, the mention of Southeastern oysters tends to elicit skepticism, with raised eyebrows and pursed lips. “Second-rate oysters from warm waters? Not for my crushed ice platter,” many would declare. I must admit, I was among this group of skeptics.
That was until I had a fortuitous experience with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which completely changed my perspective. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs passionate about reviving the Southern oyster’s image, generating local value, and fostering environmental sustainability.
They graciously invited me to spend a few days working on their farms. Armed with rubber boots and a generous layer of sunblock, I set out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: In the Gulf
On a lovely early morning, I was welcomed by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, piloted us to their leasehold as Smith recounted how he and his wife Maura serendipitously ventured into oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“Our family has always enjoyed seafood, so it felt like a natural path to follow,” Smith shares while gesturing toward the sun-drenched waters and clear skies. “Additionally, you can’t beat the office view.”
In the Southeastern U.S., most oyster farming takes place “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tides consistently infuse nutrients into the environment. Ahead of us, floating cages are visible, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Today, our main task would be harvesting. Raising a cage to extract a flattened bag proved to be quite a workout. The surrounding sea life clung to the cage, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish everywhere. “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef,” Smith commented.
The bags’ contents are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates smaller oysters from those ready for harvesting. Some of these smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at bolstering wild oyster populations, crucial for maintaining water health. Smith differentiates two terms: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” serves ecological needs.
Sorting the oysters provided a chance to delve into the personal aspects of this work. Ballard shared his motivations: “Raising an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat growth has highlighted the extensive work that lies ahead to maintain our environment.”
Smith sums it up succinctly, “It’s a joy and privilege to be part of a business that brings happiness to people’s lives. Honestly, who can resist smiling while indulging in oysters?”
Day Two: In the Atlantic
I was welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon. As our skiff skimmed over the clear waters, Mariano revealed her fascination with aquaculture sparked when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the age of 14. With a Bachelor of Science degree enhancing her enjoyment, she remarked, “I cherish being out on the water early in the morning, surrounded by all the natural sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, her team clad in slickers began the process of separating and sorting; any damaged oysters were tossed into the shallow waters, attracting various fish species to feed. Mariano proudly shared the local benefits of the farm. “The oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; the farm has evolved into its own vibrant ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated several jobs within our community, accommodating individuals of all ages.”
Facing Challenges
Farming oysters isn’t without its difficulties; mortality events and intricate regulations pose challenges, but the most significant hurdle lies in weather conditions. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recounted a year when Hurricane Helene obliterated their entire harvest. “Endurance, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility are essential. We learn to navigate and adapt as we go,” he explained.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association helps encourage these farmers. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressed their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most hard-working, adaptable and innovative individuals I know. We strive to promote this burgeoning industry in the South and invite everyone to experience it. Taste a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and enjoy the difference.”
Despite the obstacles, Ballard from Calusa encapsulates the sentiment among his peers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for anything.”
This article was originally featured in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. edition).
