If you’re familiar with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern shores of the U.S. are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Oyster lovers rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast enjoy their own acclaim.
In contrast, discussions about Southeastern oysters often lead to skepticism — warm-water oysters deemed inferior? A resounding no from this oyster enthusiast. I admit, I used to share that viewpoint.
However, a fortuitous meeting with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs striving to enhance the reputation of Southern oysters, generate value for their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
I was graciously invited to spend a couple of days on the farms. So, equipped with rubber boots and generous helpings of sunscreen, I set off for the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
First Day: Gulf Adventures
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, takes us to their leasehold while Smith explains how he and his wife Maura inadvertently discovered oyster farming and thought, “Hey, we could manage that!”
“Our family is passionate about seafood, so it felt like a natural direction,” Smith says, gesturing to the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Plus, the workplace offers unrivaled scenery.”
In the Southeast, most oyster aquaculture is “off-bottom,” found in estuaries where tidal movements consistently refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages ahead contain mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag quickly becomes quite a workout. Marine life clings to the cage structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish thriving nearby. Smith observes, “Our farm functions like a floating reef now.”
As small oysters are tumbled through a rotating perforated cylinder, the sorting process separates those ready for harvesting. Some of these smaller oysters will be given to a local restoration group, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild population critical for the health of the marine environment. Smith clarifies the distinction: “cultivation” is focused on consumption, while “restoration” is environmentally driven.
This somewhat labor-intensive process of sorting allows for personal reflections. Ballard shares what fuels his dedication: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and encourages habitat growth has made me realize how much work is needed to preserve our ecosystem.”
To sum it up, Smith adds, “Finding a business that brings such joy to people’s lives is a true honor. After all, have you ever noticed anyone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Second Day: Atlantic Insights
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the pristine waters, Nicolette shares her lifelong interest in aquaculture, igniting during her time volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree supports her passion for her profession. “I cherish being out on the boat in the early hours, soaking in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
When back at the dock, her crew preps by sorting and separating; damaged oysters are discarded into shallow waters, enticing a swarm of fish to feed. Mariano reflects on the community enhancements that stem from the farm. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat for juveniles; it’s genuinely its own ecosystem. We’ve also generated numerous jobs for young and old in our local community.”
Facing Challenges
While mortality rates and complex regulations pose challenges, the most significant hurdle comes from unpredictable weather. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa experienced a complete loss one year due to Hurricane Helene. “Persistence, hard work, creativity, and flexibility are essential. We simply find a way to adapt and keep moving forward.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, led by Executive Director Adrianne Johnson, extends community support. She emphasizes, “Shellfish farmers embody perseverance and innovation. We are eager to elevate this burgeoning Southern industry and encourage everyone to partake. Savor a southern oyster, support a local farmer, relish the taste.”
Despite the obstacles faced, Ballard from Calusa expresses a sentiment shared by his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t trade this lifestyle for anything.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
