Those familiar with oysters recognize the northern US coasts as a treasure trove of exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the captivating Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, as well as the acclaimed Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, a mention of Southeastern oysters often elicits skeptical reactions—wrinkled noses, pursed lips, and shaking heads. Who would want lesser quality oysters from warmer waters on their ice-cold platter? Confession time: I used to belong to that group of skeptics.
Then, a fortunate encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, expanded my horizons (and palate). At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I was introduced to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs focused on rehabilitating the reputation of Southern oysters, bolstering community value, and promoting environmental sustainability.
I received warm invitations to spend a few days on the farms. With rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I eagerly journeyed to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the gulf
On a radiant morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His assistant, Reid Ballard, takes us to their leasehold, as Smith recounts how he and his wife, Maura, serendipitously ventured into oyster farming, proclaiming, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family is passionate about seafood, so it made sense to follow this path,” he explains, gesturing at the beautiful waters and the clear blue skies. “And the work environment is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” within estuaries, where the tides continually replenish essential nutrients. We pass by floating cages, each filled with mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main activity is harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite a workout. Various marine life clings to the cage structures, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all around. As Smith remarks, “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. Some of the smaller ones will be donated to a local conservation initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to support wild populations crucial for the health of these waters. Smith distinguishes between the two types: “Cultivation is for consumption; restoration benefits the environment.”
This somewhat laborious process of sorting and cleaning allows for personal reflections. Ballard shares his motivation, stating, “Raising an organism that captures carbon, purifies water, and encourages habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing efforts required to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith sums it all up perfectly: “Discovering a business that spreads positivity in people’s lives is a great joy and honor. Do you ever see a picture of someone eating oysters without a smile?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
A dock on the Indian River Lagoon serves as my welcome point from Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the crystalline water, Nicolette shares her early fascination with aquaculture, sparked during a volunteer stint at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the age of fourteen. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her enthusiasm for her profession. “Being out on the boat in the morning, surrounded by the sights and sounds… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air, I love every moment,” she expresses.
Back on the dock, her team dons rain gear and begins sorting; any damaged oysters are thrown into the shallow waters where a variety of fish gather. Mariano reflects on the local advantages her farm provides. “The oysters create an incredible vertical three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; the farm is truly an ecosystem in itself. Additionally, we’ve generated job opportunities for all ages in our community.”
The challenges
Mortality events and intricate regulations can present challenges, but unpredictable weather remains the greatest hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s yield to Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We always find a way to navigate through challenges,” he states.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association provides community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest working, most resilient and innovative people I know. We aim to uplift this incredible, burgeoning industry in the South and encourage everyone to get involved. Try a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and taste the distinction.”
Despite these challenges, Ballard from Calusa represents his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for any amount of money.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
