If you’ve ever indulged in oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern shores of the US are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast receive similar acclaim.
However, when the oysters of the Southeastern US are brought up, many tend to scrunch their noses, pursing their lips and shaking their heads at the thought. Is it really worth considering warm-water oysters? I admit I was previously among those skeptics.
My perspective shifted dramatically after my first taste of Shark Bite oysters hailing from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine introduced me to a dedicated group of entrepreneurs determined to elevate the Southern oyster’s reputation, foster local economies, and positively impact their environments.
Invitations poured in to spend a few days working on the farms, prompting me to pack my rubber boots and apply plenty of sunscreen for an adventure in the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: In the Gulf
On a stunning morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. Accompanied by his young partner, Reid Ballard, we glide toward their leased area. Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura serendipitously fell into oyster farming, exclaiming, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family adores seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” remarks Smith, indicating the shimmering waters and bright, clear skies around us. “Plus, the view from the ‘office’ is unmatched.”
Most oyster farming practices in the Southeast involve cultivating them “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tidal flow regularly rejuvenates the nutrients in the water. Floating cages laden with mesh bags housing oysters at various growth stages bob before us.
Our main task today is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag is no small feat. The cages are encrusted with life, showcasing an assortment of seaweed, crabs, and small fish. “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef,” remarks Smith.
Bag contents are poured into a rotating cylindrical sorter, filtering out smaller oysters and guiding those ready for harvest. Some of the younger oysters will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering the wild populations essential for the health of these ecosystems. Smith differentiates between the two: “cultivation is for consumption, while restoration serves an ecological purpose.”
The somewhat monotonous task of sorting provides a perfect opportunity to delve into the personal motivations driving this work. Ballard shares his passion: “Farming an organism that captures carbon, cleans water, and encourages habitat development has illuminated the immense efforts needed to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the rewarding nature of this venture: “Finding a career that spreads joy is a true privilege. Have you ever noticed someone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Second Day: In the Atlantic
At the dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I’m greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we navigate the serene waters, she shares her fascination with aquaculture that began as a 14-year-old volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree reinforces her enthusiasm for the industry she cherishes so much. “I cherish the early mornings on the boat, soaking in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air,” she expresses.
Back at the dock, her team puts on their slickers and begins separating and organizing; any damaged oysters are tossed into the shallow waters, where numerous fish species gather to feed. Mariano highlights the local advantages provided by the farm: “The oysters form a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; it’s like a self-contained ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated various jobs in our community, welcoming individuals of all ages.”
Facing Challenges
The industry faces various hardships, ranging from mortality events to regulatory complexities, but weather conditions remain the primary obstacle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for example, Smith’s operations at Calusa suffered a catastrophic loss from Hurricane Helene, which obliterated an entire year’s worth of work. “It requires patience, perseverance, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We always find a way to push through,” reflects Smith.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association stands as a supportive community, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson affirming their mission: “Farmers in the shellfish industry are some of the most dedicated and innovative individuals I know. We aim to promote this incredible emerging sector in the South and encourage people to get involved. Sample a Southern oyster; support a local farmer and experience the difference!”
Despite numerous difficulties, Calusa’s Ballard represents the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything in the world.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
