A quick glance at the produce aisle of any grocery store today will reveal a multitude of labels promoting “organic” and “local” products among the fresh fruits and vegetables. You may think, “This has always been the case.” However, that’s not accurate.
The USDA’s organic certification was not established until October 2002, a response to an increasing awareness among both farmers and consumers regarding the environmental impacts of large-scale agricultural practices on the food system.
A woman on a mission
Angela Tedesco is intimately familiar with this evolution, having been actively involved in it. As the author of the recently published Finding Turtle Farm: My Twenty-Acre Adventure in Community Supported Agriculture (University of Minnesota Press, 2022), Tedesco transformed her own 20-acre farm to organic standards and initiated one of Iowa’s pioneering community-supported agriculture (CSA) programs, which operated from 1995 to 2012.
Moreover, she played a key role as a founding member of the Iowa Network for Community Agriculture; these groups helped farmers cater to the rising consumer demand for locally sourced fresh produce. The dedication of farmers like Tedesco and the support of local network initiatives laid the groundwork for the rise of organic and regenerative farming practices and the remarkable array of fresh local produce we enjoy today.
How to grow good food
Tedesco’s childhood included time spent on an Oklahoma farm, where she engaged in outdoor adventures like collecting eggs from amidst the hay bales in the barn. As the fourth child in a family of five, she never envisioned herself pursuing farming. Nevertheless, her experiences on the farm instilled a deep appreciation for nature and a fundamental understanding of food’s freshness and growth.
Only years later, after marrying and raising two daughters, did she begin cultivating her own garden in the backyard. The responsibilities of motherhood prompted her to reconsider how food should be grown healthily. She recalls, “I would look at the insecticide container for vegetable plants and think, ‘why am I applying these toxic chemicals to food that I will eat and give to my children?’”
During this period, the food landscape was shifting drastically. Tedesco notes, “Pesticide usage was on the rise, government policies promoted mono-cropping, and genetic engineering was hailed as a solution.”
Motivated to make choices that positively impacted both people and the environment, she recognized that farming was her avenue to effecting change. “Everyone eats. I aspired to cultivate food that benefitted people and the planet alike.”
From school to CSA, sustainable to organic
Pursuing her Master’s degree in Horticulture at the University of Iowa, Tedesco found herself among like-minded peers. Although organic agriculture classes were not yet offered, her advisor had recently secured a pioneering Leopold grant aimed at promoting sustainable farming practices.
Throughout her studies, Tedesco focused on alternative productive systems for strawberries, including organic methods. She connected with fellow students who shared her concerns about the agricultural system and established relationships with individuals outside the university focused on local food efforts.
It was during an organic farming conference that she was introduced to the CSA model, which allows farmers to supply food directly to consumers.
The CSA model
“I was particularly drawn to it as it emphasized cooperation over competition,” she clarifies. “With the movement advocating for local eating gaining momentum, we found ourselves questioning why we were relying on 80-90% imported food when our soil was among the best globally. Why weren’t we producing our own food instead of just cultivating crops for livestock or profit-driven commodities like corn syrup?”
After graduation, Tedesco commenced the development of her own CSA, initially operating on leased land and subsequently transitioning her own farm to organic practices, which she believed ensured a higher degree of transparency.
“When I initiated my farm, everyone was using the term sustainable. We all had our interpretations of sustainability, but the term became watered down as it was employed by many. In contrast, organic had established guidelines and defined parameters, creating a baseline to strive for,” she said about her dedication to organic farming.
A connection to the earth and farmers
As Tedesco became more involved in farming, she recognized the significance of adhering to organic methods and even explored biodynamic and regenerative practices, which prioritize the well-being of animals, humans, and ecological diversity.
“The more you engage in farming, the more you appreciate the necessity of nurturing the soil and understanding the diverse ecosystem of the farm. It deepens your connection to the Gaia notion of a living Earth and highlights the interdependence of all elements,” she shared. “If we continue poisoning our environment, we will face dire consequences. That motivated me to pursue sustainable farming that aligns with nature.”
When she first launched her CSA, there was little demand for it, as the concept was unfamiliar to most. However, by leveraging word-of-mouth from 1995 to 2012, she expanded her CSA from 30 shares in its inaugural year to 180 shares. Throughout this journey, she came to value the dual benefits of this farming approach, both for the planet and for farmers, which she likens to a triangle.
“It benefits farmers by ensuring they have a dedicated consumer base in advance. It’s advantageous for customers because they build a rapport with the farmer, understand growing practices, and receive the freshest produce. Lastly, it supports the earth. Remove any one side of this triangle and the whole structure collapses,” she stated.
Tedesco believes this philosophy is essential for fostering local agricultural support, whether through a CSA or at a grocery store. “Understanding your farmer and where your food originates is crucial. Relying on disrupted supply chains can jeopardize your access to food. By supporting local farmers, your food dollar helps sustain the community.” She adds, “If local farmers are not supported, they risk disappearing.”
