If you have a casual familiarity with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern US coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hama oysters from the West.
Conversely, when the topic of Southeast oysters arises, many react with disdain—scrunching noses, pursing lips, and shaking heads. Mediocre oysters from warmer waters? Absolutely not on my platter of crushed ice! I’ll admit, I was once among those skeptics.
However, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida drastically changed my perspective. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, generating economic growth for their communities, and enhancing the local ecosystem.
I received warm invitations to spend a couple of days working on the oyster farms. With rubber boots ready and sunscreen applied, I was excited to venture into the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Atlantic Embrace
The sun rises beautifully as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me with warmth in South Tampa Bay. As Reid Ballard, his enthusiastic colleague, drives us out to their oyster lease, Smith shares how he and his wife Maura serendipitously explored the idea of oyster farming, declaring, “We could do that!”
“My family has a passion for seafood, so it felt like the natural path to follow,” Smith notes, gesturing towards the shimmering waters and clear skies. “Besides, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast primarily occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides continuously refresh the nutrient-rich water. Floating cages ahead of us contain mesh bags filled with oysters at varying growth stages.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Extracting a cage and removing a flattened bag proves to be an arduous task. Sea life clings to the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and small fish all around. “Our farm has essentially transformed into a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The oysters are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, which sifts out the smaller ones and channels the larger ones ready for harvest. Some of the lesser oysters will be donated to the local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at boosting wild populations crucial to the ecosystem’s health. Smith highlights the distinction: “Cultivation” caters to consumption, whereas “restoration” benefits the environment.
This somewhat monotonous procedure of cleaning and sorting provides ample time for introspection. Ballard shares the passion driving his work: “Cultivating an animal that stores carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has illuminated just how much effort is required to maintain a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment perfectly: “Finding a business that brings such joy to people’s lives is a rare pleasure. Have you ever noticed anyone not smiling while they’re enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: Atlantic Insights
I find myself at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, where Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me warmly. As our boat glides effortlessly over the pristine waters, Nicolette shares her fascination with aquaculture, ignited when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. With a Bachelor of Science degree backing her passion, she states, “I love the early mornings on the water, surrounded by the sights and sounds of nature—the birds, dolphins, and manatees enjoying the morning sun.”
Once back on the dock, her crew begins the sorting process, with damaged oysters returned to the water, where curious fish flock around to feed. Mariano expresses the local advantages brought about by their farm. “The oysters establish an impressive three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; the farm is undeniably its own ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated several jobs in the community for individuals of various ages.”
Facing the Challenges
Challenges arise from high mortality rates and complex regulations, but the weather remains the principal issue. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; Smith at Calusa recalls a year’s worth of work lost due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We simply find alternative solutions and continue pushing forward.”
Community support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson shares their vision: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I’ve encountered. We aim to uplift this emerging Southern industry and encourage people to engage. Sample a southern oyster, support local farmers, and enjoy the distinct flavor.”
Despite the enduring challenges, Ballard from Calusa reflects the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for a million dollars.”
This article was originally featured in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
