If you’re at all familiar with oysters, it’s likely you’ve heard about the exceptional shellfish found along the northern shores of the US. Enthusiasts revel in the distinct flavors of East Coast Beausoleils and Wellfleets while boasting about the West Coast’s Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, the very mention of Southeast oysters often elicits skepticism, with people wrinkling their noses and dismissing them as inferior shellfish from warmer waters. I’ll admit, I was guilty of this mindset myself.
That was until I encountered the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida, which transformed my perception. During an Oyster South gathering in St. Augustine, I came across a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, enriching their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days helping out at the farms. So, armed with rubber boots and generously applied sunblock, I set off towards the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, pilots us to their leasehold as Smith recounts how he and his wife, Maura, stumbled into the oyster farming business, exclaiming, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family enjoys seafood, so it seemed a natural path to explore,” Smith shares, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Moreover, the work environment doesn’t get much better than this.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides continuously refresh the nutrient supply. Floating cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages, bob in the water ahead.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a physically demanding chore. The surrounding marine life clings to the cage structures, with abundant seaweed, crabs, and little fish everywhere. “Our farm resembles a floating reef now,” Smith observes.
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, which sorts out smaller oysters and directs those ready for harvest. Some smaller ones will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative aimed at supporting the wild populations essential for the health of these waters. Smith distinguishes between the two: “Cultivation is for consumption; restoration is for ecological health.”
The somewhat laborious process of scraping and categorizing provides a moment to delve into the personal aspects of this profession. Ballard shares his motivations, stating, “Raising an animal that captures carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the immense ongoing efforts needed to maintain our environment.”
Smith concludes, “It’s a joy and privilege to be involved in a business that brings so much happiness to people’s lives. Do you ever see pictures of folks without smiles when they’re eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
A dock on the Indian River Lagoon is where I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the clear blue waters, she shares her longstanding passion for aquaculture, which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at age 14. Her Bachelor’s degree in science complements her enthusiasm for her vocation. “I cherish being out on the boat early in the morning, soaking in the atmosphere… the sounds of ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she explains.
Back at the dock, her team gears up, sorting and separating the oysters; the damaged ones are discarded into shallow waters, where various fish species flock and feed. Mariano reflects on the advantages the farm provides to the community: “The oysters establish a fantastic vertical three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; indeed, the farm creates its unique ecosystem. Furthermore, we’ve generated numerous job opportunities for individuals of all ages within our community.”
The challenges
While mortality events and complex regulations can pose challenges, the weather remains the greatest obstacle. Hurricanes can cause widespread destruction on farms; Smith from Calusa recounts losing an entire year’s yield to Hurricane Helene. “This field requires persistence, hard work, inventiveness, toughness, and adaptability. We continually find ways to navigate through and move forward,” Smith explains.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association ensures community backing, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most devoted, resilient, and innovative people I’ve encountered. We aim to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and welcome everyone to join in. Savor a southern oyster, endorse a local farmer, and experience the flavor difference.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa shares the sentiments of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything, not even a million dollars.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
