If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern U.S. coastlines are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast varieties like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast aficionados extol the virtues of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, bring up the southeastern oyster, and the response is often one of disdain—noses wrinkle, lips tighten, and heads shake in disbelief. Southern oysters from warm waters? Absolutely not on my ice-cold platter. Admittedly, I used to share those sentiments.
This perspective changed dramatically when I encountered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida, which opened my taste buds (and my horizons) to a different realm of oysters. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of passionate entrepreneurs determined to revitalize the Southern oyster’s image, create economic opportunities in their communities, and positively impact the environment.
They kindly invited me to spend a few days volunteering on their oyster farms. Equipped with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set out for the stunning waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: Gulf Adventures
The day begins beautifully as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their leasehold while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura accidentally ventured into oyster farming, proclaiming, “We could do this!”
“Our family loves seafood, so it made perfect sense,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the dazzling waters and clear skies. “Besides, this view can’t be beaten.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast is carried out “off-bottom” in estuarine waters where the tides continually replenish nutrients. We see floating cages ahead, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
The main objective for today is to harvest. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be a demanding task. Various sea creatures cling to the cage, along with an abundance of seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith describes it: “Our farm has become like a floating reef.”
The oysters are sorted using a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates the smaller oysters while directing the ready-to-harvest ones forward. Any smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster the wild populations essential to the ecosystem’s health. Smith delineates the distinction: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” pertains to environmental health.
The somewhat laborious task of cleaning and arranging provides a moment to discuss the personal motivations behind this work. Ballard expresses his passion: “Farming a species that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the ongoing work needed to keep our environment clean.”
Smith summarizes it succinctly: “Finding a business that positively impacts people’s lives is a true joy. After all, who doesn’t smile while savoring oysters?”
Day Two: Exploring the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the translucent waters, Mariano shares her early passion for aquaculture, sparked during her time volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her enthusiasm for the profession. “I cherish being on the water in the morning, absorbing all the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she shares.
Upon returning to the dock, her crew gears up to separate and organize the oysters; damaged ones are cast back into the water, attracting a variety of fish that thrive there. Mariano highlights the local impact of their farming efforts: “The oysters create an incredible vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; indeed, the farm is its own little ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated numerous job opportunities within our community for individuals of all ages.”
Challenges Faced
While navigating complicated regulations and combative mortality rates can be challenging, the weather remains the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa witnessed his entire annual output obliterated by Hurricane Helene. “It demands grit, hard work, invention, persistence, and adaptability. We just find a way to push through and move forward,” he explains.
Community support is advocated by the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expresses their goals: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest workers, exhibiting resilience and innovation. We aim to elevate this promising new industry in the South and invite everyone to get involved. Sample a southern oyster, support local agriculture, and experience the difference.”
Despite the multitude of challenges, Calusa’s Ballard epitomizes his fellow farmers’ sentiments: “I wouldn’t exchange this work for a million dollars.”
This piece originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
