For those familiar with oysters, the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while praising the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
However, bringing up oysters from the Southeast often elicits skepticism—people squint, purse their lips, and shake their heads. Subpar oysters from warmer waters? Not a chance on my icy platter. To be honest, I used to share that view.
Then, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I stumbled upon a group of passionate entrepreneurs committed to enhancing the Southern oyster’s image, benefiting their communities, and restoring the local ecosystem.
I gratefully accepted invitations to spend a couple of days working at the farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I excitedly made my way to the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the Gulf
The dawn is stunning as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company welcomes me to South Tampa Bay. His young partner, Reid Ballard, pilots us out to their leased waters while Smith admits that he and his wife, Maura, fortuitously discovered the idea of oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“My family loves seafood, so stepping into this field felt natural,” Smith shares while indicating the shimmering waters and cloudless skies. “And honestly, the office view is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the tides consistently refresh the water’s nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob on the surface, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s focus is on harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Marine life clings to the cage structures, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish all around. Smith observes, “Our farm now resembles a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are placed in a rotating perforated cylinder, sorting out the smaller oysters while directing those ready for harvest elsewhere. Some of the smaller oysters are earmarked for donation to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aiding the wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith distinguishes the two: “cultivation” is for eating, while “restoration” serves the environment.
The somewhat monotonous work of sorting provides an opportunity for personal insights. Ballard expresses his drive: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and enriches habitats has made me aware of the responsibilities ahead to preserve our environment.”
Smith encapsulates the essence: “Finding a business that adds so much joy to people’s lives is a true honor. Do you ever see anyone frowning when they enjoy oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
I arrive at a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the clear waters, she shares her longstanding fascination with aquaculture, stemming from her teenage volunteer days at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree supports her enjoyment of this profession. “Being out on the boat in the serene early morning, surrounded by all the natural sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees—is simply delightful.”
Back at the dock, her crew suits up and begins separating and sorting; damaged oysters are tossed into shallow waters where various fish feed eagerly. Mariano reflects on the positive impacts of the farm on the local community, stating, “These oysters create a remarkable three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; our farm truly embodies a unique ecosystem. Moreover, we have generated numerous job opportunities for individuals of all ages.”
The Challenges
Mortality events and complex regulations can pose significant hurdles, but weather remains the foremost challenge. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recounted losing an entire year’s harvest to Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and flexibility. We always figure out a way to adapt and continue.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association offers community support, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson expressing their goal: “Shellfish farmers are some of the hardest-working, most resilient and innovative people I’ve met. We want to elevate this emerging industry in the South and encourage people to support it. Try a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite these challenges, Ballard from Calusa articulates a sentiment shared by many in the field: “I wouldn’t exchange this job for a fortune.”
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
