If you’re at all familiar with oysters, you might have heard about the exceptional varieties sourced from the northern shores of the United States. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while the West is known for its delicious Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, bring up oysters from the Southeast, and you might witness some skepticism—the idea of subpar shellfish from warmer waters typically doesn’t sit well. I must admit, I used to share that view.
But then, a fortunate discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida changed my perspective entirely. During an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of innovative entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the Southern oyster’s reputation, enriching local communities, and improving environmental conditions.
I was generously invited to spend a few days working alongside them on their farms. So, with rubber boots packed and sunblock applied, I set off for the bountiful waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day One: At the Gulf
On a radiant early morning, I’m greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company at South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, pilots us to their leasehold while Smith candidly shares that he and his wife Maura stumbled into the world of oyster farming with a simple idea: “We could do that!”
“Seafood has always been a family favorite, so pursuing this path felt quite natural,” Smith says, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Oyster aquaculture in the Southeast primarily takes place “off-bottom” within estuaries, benefiting from the constant tidal replenishment of nutrients. Ahead of us are floating cages containing mesh bags filled with oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s main activity focuses on harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a bag can be quite labor-intensive, with an abundance of marine life clinging to the structures—seaweed, crabs, and small fish abound. As Smith describes, “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are sifted through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates out smaller oysters while channeling those ready for harvest. The smaller ones are earmarked for donation to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, which aids in sustaining the wild oyster populations essential to these ecosystems. Smith makes a clear distinction: “cultivation” pertains to consumption, whereas “restoration” focuses on environmental health.
This somewhat monotonous process of scraping and sorting provides an opportunity for personal narratives to emerge. Ballard shares his driving passion: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, filters water, and fosters habitat growth has opened my eyes to the necessity of ongoing efforts toward a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the sentiment perfectly: “Finding a vocation that brings such joy to people’s lives is a true honor. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At the Indian River Lagoon dock, I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff navigates the pristine waters, she shares that her fascination with aquaculture began at the age of 14 as a volunteer at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. A Bachelor of Science degree complements her personal passion for this field, as she states, “I cherish the early mornings on the boat, soaking in the sounds and scents… the ospreys, the dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
At the dock, her crew begins the process of separating and sorting; any damaged oysters are discarded into the shallow waters, where fish of various species gather to feed. Mariano notes the local advantages of the farm. “The oysters offer a remarkable vertical habitat for young organisms; our farm has truly become its own little ecosystem. We’ve also generated several jobs within our community across all ages.”
Facing Adversities
While challenges such as mortality events and complex regulations add to the difficulties, the weather remains the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa experienced the loss of an entire year’s worth of work due to Hurricane Helene. “It requires tenacity, diligence, creativity, flexibility, and resilience. We manage to navigate around or through the obstacles and persist,” he reflects.
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association is crucial, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson articulating their vision: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest-working and most resilient individuals I’ve ever met. We aim to elevate this promising industry in the South and invite others to join us. Experience a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and taste the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles, Ballard from Calusa reflects the sentiments of his peers: “This job is irreplaceable; I wouldn’t trade it for anything.”
This article was initially published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
