If you’re familiar with oysters, you’re probably aware that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West claim their share of admiration.
However, when the Southeast’s oysters come up in conversation, discerning faces can often be seen turning up, lips tightening, and heads shaking. Subpar oysters from warmer waters? Not on my ice-cold platter. I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
Everything changed after I had the unexpected pleasure of tasting Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a group of passionate entrepreneurs dedicated to revitalizing the Southern oyster’s reputation, adding value to their communities, and improving the local ecosystem.
They kindly invited me to spend a few days working on their farms. With rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I eagerly set out for the warm waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
On a picturesque early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay, accompanied by his young colleague Reid Ballard, who is propelling us to their leasehold. Smith shares that he and his wife Maura stumbled upon the idea of oyster farming almost by accident, exclaiming, “Hey, we could do that!”
“My family has always enjoyed seafood, so it made sense to delve into it,” Smith comments, gesturing to the sparkling waters under the clear sky. “And the view from the ‘office’ is unbeatable.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming is done off the bottom in estuaries, where tidal movements continuously renew the water’s nutrients. We glide past floating cages, each holding mesh bags with oysters at varying growth stages.
Today’s main objective is harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. A variety of sea life clings to the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish abundantly present. As Smith points out, “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
We sift through the contents of the bags using a rotating perforated cylinder that segregates smaller oysters, which are channeled off for harvesting. Some of these smaller ones will be donated to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations critical for the health of the region’s waters. Smith differentiates between the two: “cultivation” focuses on consumption, while “restoration” targets environmental benefits.
This somewhat monotonous task of cleaning and sorting gives us plenty of time to delve into personal reflections about this lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivations: “Growing oysters that absorb carbon, cleanse water, and foster habitat growth has made me realize the continuous efforts required to maintain a clean environment.”
Summarizing the experience, Smith adds, “Finding a profession that brings so much joy to people’s lives is a privilege. Have you ever noticed anyone not smiling when eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
My next stop is a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, where I meet Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide over the crystalline waters in our skiff, Nicolette shares her long-standing passion for aquaculture which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. She holds a Bachelor of Science degree that bolsters her enjoyment in this line of work. “There’s something magical about being out on the water at dawn, absorbing all the sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons slickers and begins the process of sorting and separating the oysters; any damaged ones are tossed into shallow waters where swarms of fish eagerly feed. Mariano reflects on the significant local benefits of her farm. “The oysters provide a unique three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; the farm is genuinely its own little ecosystem. We’ve also contributed numerous jobs in our community for individuals of diverse ages.”
The hurdles
Mortality events and complex regulations can pose challenges, but severe weather remains the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate oyster farms; Smith from Calusa lost an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. “It demands tenacity, hard work, innovation, resilience, and the ability to adapt. We just have to keep pushing through these challenges.”
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association plays a vital supportive role, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlighting their purpose: “Shellfish farmers are profoundly dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals. We aim to uplift this remarkable emerging industry in the Southern region and invite others to join us. Taste a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite the various obstacles, Ballard from Calusa represents his colleagues with his sentiment: “There’s no amount of money that could convince me to trade this job.”
This piece initially appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. version).
