Those familiar with oysters recognize the northern U.S. coasts’ reputation for exceptional shellfish. Enthusiasts celebrate East Coast Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast Kumamotos and Hama Hamas receive high accolades.
However, when the topic turns to Southeastern oysters, it’s met with skepticism—many shunning the idea of enjoying oysters sourced from warmer waters. I must admit, I was once among those skeptics.
However, my perspective shifted dramatically after an unexpected tasting of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. Attending an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated group of entrepreneurs driven by the ambition to reshape the perception of Southern oysters while providing value to their communities and fostering environmental health.
With open arms, I was invited to spend a few days working on their farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I enthusiastically ventured into the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: At the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His enthusiastic partner, Reid Ballard, pilots us towards their lease, while Smith shares how he and his wife Maura stumbled into oyster farming, exclaiming, “We could do that!”
“My family is fond of seafood, making it a logical pursuit,” Smith adds, gesturing towards the sunlit sea and azure skies. “The view from the office is unrivaled.”
Most oyster farming in the Southeast occurs in estuaries where the tides ensure a steady flow of nutrients. Floating cages—each with mesh bags containing oysters in various growth stages—dot the water’s surface.
Our main focus today is harvesting. Lifting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves a physically demanding task. The cages teem with marine life, adorned with seaweed, crabs, and shimmering fish. “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef,” Smith notes.
Inside the bags, oysters are sifted through a rotating perforated device that separates the smaller ones, channeling the harvest-ready oysters for collection. Some of these smaller specimens will contribute to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at bolstering wild stocks essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith contrasts the two: “Cultivation is for consumption, while restoration serves the environment.”
The often monotonous yet fulfilling task of sorting fosters personal conversations as Ballard shares his dedication to the craft: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and nurtures habitat growth has shed light on the ongoing efforts needed to maintain our environment.”
Smith encapsulates the experience: “Discovering a career that brings joy to so many people is a privilege. Have you ever noticed anyone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
My next stop is a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, where Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish greets me. As we glide over the clear waters in our skiff, she shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, which began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14. Her Bachelor’s degree further consolidates her zeal for this profession. “I relish being on the boat during early mornings, soaking in every sound and smell—the ospreys, dolphins, and the sight of manatees surfacing for a breath.”
At the dock, her team gears up to separate and sort the oysters, discarding damaged ones back into the shallow waters, where they attract a swarm of various fish. Mariano considers the local impacts of the farm: “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat that nurtures juvenile organisms; genuinely, it is its own ecosystem. Moreover, we’ve generated numerous jobs for individuals of varying ages in our community.”
The Obstacles
While navigating mortality events and intricate regulations may pose challenges, the weather is the most formidable opponent. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa lost an entire year’s yield due to Hurricane Helene. “Persistence, hard work, ingenuity, resilience, and the ability to adapt are essential. We simply find a way to maneuver through challenges and continue onward,” he says.
Support comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their aim: “Shellfish farmers are perhaps the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I know. Our goal is to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South, inviting people to participate. Experience a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and relish the difference.”
Despite the numerous hurdles, Ballard at Calusa reflects the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This piece was initially published in the November/December 2025 issue of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. edition).
