The northern shores of the United States are iconic for their exquisite oysters, with connoisseurs reveling in the flavors of Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, along with Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West.
Conversely, mention the Southeast’s oysters, and many will turn their noses up, displaying skepticism toward these warmer water varieties. Second-rate shellfish on my ice-filled platter? Not a chance. Admittedly, I once belonged to this group of critics.
However, my perspective shifted dramatically when I encountered Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I connected with enthusiastic entrepreneurs dedicated to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, bolstering local economies, and promoting environmental health.
Invitations to spend several days on the farms quickly followed. Armed with rubber boots and slathered in sunblock, I was thrilled to journey into the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
The First Day: In the Gulf
The sun shines bright on this early morning as Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young colleague, Reid Ballard, navigates us to their aquaculture site as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura unwittingly entered the oyster farming world, thinking, “Why not us?”
“Given my family’s love for seafood, it seemed a natural direction,” Smith expresses while admiring the radiant waters and clear skies. “Plus, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most oysters in the Southeast are cultivated “off-bottom” in estuaries where dynamic tides refresh the nutrient supply. Ahead of us, floating cages bob, each containing mesh sacks loaded with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main job is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flat bag proves to be quite the workout. Diverse marine life clings to the cages, with seaweed, crabs, and smaller fish dotting the scene. As Smith puts it, “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
We tumble the oyster contents through a rotating, perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters while guiding the mature ones for harvest. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, to bolster wild populations crucial for the ecosystem’s health. Smith clarifies: “cultivation” is for dining pleasure, while “restoration” serves ecological needs.
This repetitive task of cleaning and sorting presents an opportunity for personal insight into this lifestyle. Ballard passionately shares, “Farming an animal that filters carbon, purifies water, and nurtures habitat growth has awakened my awareness of the necessity for environmental stewardship.”
In summary, Smith expresses, “Finding a vocation that spreads joy to so many is fulfilling. Have you ever noticed anyone unsmiling while enjoying oysters?”
Second Day: Along the Atlantic
Arriving at the Indian River Lagoon dock, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides smoothly over the transparent waters, Nicolette shares her longtime passion for aquaculture, which began at just 14 when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her degree in Science enriches her enjoyment of the industry. “Early morning boating offers a unique experience with all the sounds and scents… the ospreys, dolphins, and the manatees surfacing for air,” she enthuses.
Once back at the dock, her team dons rain gear and begins sorting, tossing damaged oysters into the shallow waters where hungry fish gather eagerly. Mariano highlights the local advantages of the farm: “The oysters form a remarkable vertical habitat for juvenile organisms; the result is a self-contained ecosystem. We’ve also generated numerous job opportunities within our community across various age groups.”
Facing Challenges
Difficulties such as high mortality rates and complex regulations can be challenging, but weather-related issues rank as the greatest concern. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith from Calusa recalls losing an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. “It demands perseverance, creativity, hard work, resilience, and flexibility. We adapt and find ways to push through and continue.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association helps farmers, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson sharing their mission: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working, most resilient and inventive individuals I know. We strive to elevate this phenomenal, developing sector in the south and encourage everyone to take part. Savor a southern oyster, support local farmers, and notice the difference.”
Despite the many hurdles, Ballard from Calusa speaks for his fellow farmers, stating, “I wouldn’t swap this job for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US issue).
