Those familiar with oysters know that the northern U.S. coasts are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast favorites like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast connoisseurs sing the praises of Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, bring up the oysters from the Southeast, and you might catch some dismissive glances and raised eyebrows—warm-water oysters considered inferior? Count me out. I confess I was among the skeptics.
A chance discovery of Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed my perspective entirely. During an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I encountered a dedicated community of entrepreneurs who are determined to enhance the reputation of Southern oysters, improve their communities, and promote local ecological conditions.
I received generous offers to spend several days working on the farms. Armed with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set off to explore the waters of the Atlantic and Gulf.
Exploring the Gulf on Day One
On a picturesque morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. With the help of his enthusiastic partner Reid Ballard, we head out to their aquaculture site. Smith shares that he and his wife Maura unexpectedly ventured into oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“My family loves seafood; it seemed like a natural pursuit,” Smith remarks, gesturing towards the sparkling waters. “And the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Most oyster farming in this part of the Southeast is conducted “off-bottom” in estuarine areas, where the tides consistently refresh the water’s nutrients. Floating cages, each containing mesh bags of oysters at various growth stages, bob around us.
Today’s main objective is to harvest. Hoisting a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be arduous work, as life thrives all around, with seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish in abundance. Smith observes, “Our farm now resembles a floating reef.”
The contents from the bags are sorted through a rotating perforated cylinder, separating smaller oysters and channeling those ready for harvesting. Some of these smaller oysters will be donated to the local Oyster River Ecology restoration initiative, crucial to supporting local wild populations. Smith makes a clear distinction: “Cultivation is for consumption, while restoration focuses on environmental health.”
This somewhat monotonous task of scrubbing and sorting allows for personal reflection. Ballard expresses his motivating passion: “Growing an organism that captures carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat is a reminder of how much work remains for environmental preservation.”
Summing it up, Smith states, “It’s truly rewarding to be part of a business that spreads joy. Do you ever see anyone frowning while enjoying oysters?”
Navigating Day Two on the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I am greeted by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the clear waters, she shares that her journey into aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at 14. Her Bachelor of Science degree bolsters her passion for her work. “I relish the early mornings on the boat, soaking in the sights and sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air,” she says.
Back at the dock, her team dons slickers as they begin sorting and separating; damaged oysters are cast into the shallow waters, attracting swarming fish. Mariano highlights the local advantages of the farm: “The oysters create a vibrant, vertical habitat for younger organisms; the farm indeed functions as its own little ecosystem. Plus, we provide numerous jobs for the community at various skill levels.”
Facing Challenges
Challenges such as mortality events and strict regulations can be tricky to navigate, but extreme weather poses the largest hurdle. Smith from Calusa mentioned that their entire crop was devastated by Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, innovation, and resilience. We always find a way to keep moving forward,” he remarks.
The Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association plays a vital supportive role, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are among the most hard-working, resilient, and inventive folks I know. We aim to uplift this burgeoning industry in the South and invite individuals to come join us. Taste a Southern oyster, support local farmers, and discover the difference.”
Despite the various obstacles, Ballard of Calusa reflects the sentiments of his peers: “This job is priceless to me.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of The Windows Club magazine (U.S. version).
