If you’re even slightly familiar with oysters, you undoubtedly recognize the northern U.S. coasts for their exquisite shellfish selections. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, as well as the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas hailing from the West.
However, introduce the topic of Southeast oysters, and you might witness a noticeable disdain—noses wrinkle, lips tighten, and heads shake in disapproval. Who would want subpar oysters from warmer waters? Admittedly, I was once among the skeptics.
Then, a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, changed everything for me. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to revitalizing the reputation of the Southern oyster, fostering local economies, and improving the natural environment.
After receiving generous invitations, I packed my rubber boots and slathered on sunblock, setting out for the stunning waters of both the Atlantic and the Gulf.
Day one: On the gulf
On a beautiful morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His young assistant, Reid Ballard, navigates us toward their leasehold while Smith recalls how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and thought, “Why not?”
“We’ve always loved seafood, so it made sense,” Smith remarks, gesturing at the sparkling water and clear skies. “Plus, it’s a pretty unbeatable office view.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farming occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where the tides provide a continuous supply of nutrients. Ahead of us float cages, each containing mesh bags filled with oysters at different growth stages.
Today’s main focus is harvesting. Bringing up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. Sea creatures cling to the cages—crabs, weeds, and tiny fish are abundant. “Our farm has essentially become a floating reef,” Smith observes.
The contents of the bags are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, which separates the smaller oysters from those ready for harvest. Some smaller specimens will be donated to a local oyster restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, aiming to bolster the wild populations that are critical for the health of these waters. Smith highlights: “Cultivation is for dining; restoration is for the ecosystem.”
This somewhat monotonous task of cleaning and sorting lends room for personal reflections. Ballard shares his inspiration: “Farming an organism that sequesters carbon, cleans water, and fosters habitat growth has made me acutely aware of how much work remains to be done to maintain a healthy environment.”
Smith sums it nicely: “Finding a business that spreads joy is truly rewarding. Have you ever seen people not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I’m welcomed by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide out over the clear waters, she shares that her fascination with aquaculture began at 14 while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her passion for her profession. “I find joy in being on the water in the early morning, absorbing all the sounds and smells… from ospreys to dolphins and even manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her crew begins the process of sorting and sifting; damaged oysters are tossed back into the shallow waters, where a variety of fish come to feed. Mariano reflects on the positive impacts her farm has on the local ecosystem. “The oysters create this incredible vertical habitat for juvenile species; our farm is essentially a thriving ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated numerous jobs for community members of all ages.”
The challenges
While mortality events and complex regulations pose certain difficulties, the weather represents the most significant challenge. Hurricanes can devastate farms; for instance, Smith from Calusa experienced the destruction of an entire year’s effort due to Hurricane Helene. “It demands persistence, ingenuity, resilience, and adaptability. We simply navigate around or through these challenges and keep pushing forward,” he shares.
Support is available from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, whose Executive Director Adrianne Johnson highlights their mission: “The individuals involved in shellfish farming are incredibly hard-working, resilient, and innovative. We aim to elevate this burgeoning industry in the South and invite people to join us. Sample a southern oyster, back a local farmer, and appreciate the difference.”
Despite numerous hurdles, Ballard from Calusa represents his fellow farmers’ spirit: “I wouldn’t exchange this role for anything, not even for a million bucks.”
This article was initially published in the November/December 2025 issue of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. version).
