If you have any familiarity with oysters, you’re likely aware that the northern U.S. coastlines are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish options. Seafood lovers rave about Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East, while Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West also receive accolades.
Conversely, when discussing oysters from the Southeastern region, you’ll often see skepticism; people may wrinkle their noses, tighten their lips, and shake their heads in disbelief. Warm-water oysters deemed inferior? Count me out—once upon a time, I felt the same.
However, a delightful surprise came with my experience of Shark Bite oysters sourced from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which opened my eyes—and taste buds—to an entirely different realm of oystering. During an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I came across a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to rejuvenating the Southern oyster’s reputation, generating value for their communities, and improving local ecosystems.
I was graciously invited to spend a couple of days working directly on the farms. Equipped with rubber boots and sunscreen, I set off eagerly toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: Exploring the Gulf
The morning is spectacular as Reed Smith from Calusa Oyster Company greets me in South Tampa Bay. His colleague Reid Ballard navigates us to their leased area as Smith recounts how he and his wife Maura spontaneously decided to dive into oyster farming, exclaiming, “We can do that!”
“My family has always had a fondness for seafood, so it felt like a natural pursuit,” Smith explains, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and clear skies. “And honestly, the view from the office is unbeatable.”
Oyster farming in the Southeast predominantly occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tidal movements consistently replenish nutrients in the water. Floating cages ahead hold mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages.
Today’s task is focused on harvesting. Pulling up a cage and extracting a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. The structures are covered in marine life—seaweed, crabs, and small fish abound. As Smith points out, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The bags’ contents are processed through a rotating perforated cylinder, which sorts the smaller oysters and directs the harvest-ready ones. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to Oyster River Ecology, a local restoration initiative designed to bolster wild populations essential for ecological balance. Smith emphasizes the distinction: “Cultivating is for consumption, while restoration is for the ecosystem.”
This somewhat monotonous task of scraping and sorting allows for conversations to delve deeper into personal motivations. Ballard elaborates on the inspiration fueling his work: “Producing an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and supports habitat development has opened my eyes to the ongoing challenges we face in maintaining a clean environment.”
Smith encapsulates the joy of their enterprise: “Discovering a vocation that spreads positivity in people’s lives is a true privilege. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: Discovering the Atlantic
At the Indian River Lagoon dock, I’m greeted by Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our skiff glides over the sparkling water, she shares her lifelong fascination with aquaculture, harkening back to when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center as a teenager. With a Bachelor of Science degree enhancing her enjoyment, she shares, “I adore being out on the water early in the day, absorbing all the sounds and smells… the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team dons their slickers and begins the meticulous process of separating and sorting; damaged oysters are tossed into the shallows, where schools of fish rush in to feed. Mariano underscores the local advantages brought by the farm. “The oysters create a remarkable vertical habitat that nurtures juvenile organisms; truly, it’s an ecosystem unto itself. Moreover, we’ve generated numerous job opportunities within our community for individuals across all age groups.”
Challenges Faced
Dealing with mortality events and complex regulations can be daunting, but the weather poses the greatest challenge. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith of Calusa lost an entire year’s harvest to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, determination, inventiveness, resilience, and adaptability. We just find ways to navigate around the challenges and continue,” he affirms.
Community support is vital, with the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association advocating for farmers and their efforts. Executive Director Adrianne Johnson articulates their mission: “Shellfish farmers are some of the most dedicated, resilient, and innovative individuals I’ve encountered. We aspire to uplift this burgeoning Southern industry and encourage people to get involved. Sample a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite facing numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa represents the collective sentiment among farmers: “I wouldn’t swap this job for a million bucks.”
This piece first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs (U.S. edition).
