Those familiar with oysters know that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast and cherish the Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, when the conversation shifts to the oysters found in the Southeast, many react with disdain – warm water oysters considered inferior? No, thank you. I must admit, I was once among the skeptics.
That was until I encountered the Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida, which completely changed my perspective. At an Oyster South symposium held in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of entrepreneurs committed to reviving the Southern oyster’s reputation, generating value for their communities, and preserving the environment.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days working on the farms, and with rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I eagerly made my way to the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day one: On the Gulf
As dawn breaks, I am greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company in South Tampa Bay. His colleague, Reid Ballard, pilots us out to their leasehold. Smith shares how he and his wife Maura found themselves drawn into oyster farming, exclaiming, “We could get involved!”
“Seafood is a family favorite, so it made perfect sense to pursue this venture,” Smith says, indicating the pristine waters and clear skies surrounding us. “Moreover, you can’t beat the view from the office.”
The Southeast’s oyster farming predominantly occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries, where tidal movements continually bring in fresh nutrients. Ahead of us, floating cages bob on the surface, each containing mesh bags of oysters in various growth phases.
The main focus today is harvesting. Hoisting a cage and untangling a flattened bag proves to be quite the workout. The surrounding sea life—seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish—hardly lets up. Smith proudly states, “Our farm has become a floating reef.”
The contents of the bags are sent through a rotating perforated cylinder that separates smaller oysters, funneling out those ready for harvest. The smaller oysters will be donated to a community restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, aimed at boosting the wild populations essential for the ecosystem’s health. Smith distinguishes between the two: “cultivation” is for consumption, while “restoration” supports environmental health.
The somewhat laborious tasks of scraping and sorting provide ample opportunity for personal conversation about this lifestyle. Ballard shares his motivation, saying, “Farming an animal that captures carbon, cleans water, and encourages habitat growth has opened my eyes to the vast work still needed to maintain a healthy environment.”
In summary, Smith notes, “It is a joy and a privilege to engage in a business that brings so much happiness to people’s lives. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while eating oysters?”
Day two: On the Atlantic
At a dock along the Indian River Lagoon, I am received by Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish. As we glide across the transparency of the waters, she shares how her passion for aquaculture began when she volunteered at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at the tender age of 14. With a Bachelor of Science in hand, her professional path aligns perfectly with her personal passion. “I love getting on the boat at dawn, soaking in the surrounding sounds and scents—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team gears up to sort and separate their catch, discarding damaged oysters into the shallow waters, where various fish quickly swarm to feed. Mariano speaks to the local advantages the farm brings. “The oysters offer a remarkable vertical, three-dimensional habitat for juvenile organisms; this farm is truly a unique ecosystem. Additionally, we have generated several jobs in the community for people of all ages.”
The Challenges
While various challenges, including mortality events and intricate regulations, pose difficulties, weather conditions stand as the most significant hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; Smith from Calusa recounts how an entire year’s efforts were destroyed by Hurricane Helene. “This business requires persistence, hard work, innovation, tenacity, and the ability to adapt. We simply find a way to keep moving forward.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association is vital, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their commitment: “Shellfish farmers are among the most industrious, resilient, and innovative people I know. We aim to promote this magnificent emerging industry in the South and invite everyone to be a part of it. Try a southern oyster, support local farmers, and savor the difference.”
Despite the numerous challenges faced, Ballard from Calusa conveys the sentiment of his fellow farmers: “I wouldn’t change this work for anything.”
This article first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
