If you’re familiar with oysters, you likely recognize that the northern U.S. coastline is famous for its exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about East Coast options like Beausoleils and Wellfleets, while West Coast lovers cherish Kumamotos and Hama Hamas.
However, mention oysters from the Southeast, and you’re likely to encounter disapproval—expressions contort, lips tighten, and heads shake. Below-par oysters from warmer waters? Not on my chilled platter. I must admit, I was once among the skeptics.
My perspective shifted dramatically after a chance encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach, Florida. At an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine, I met a dedicated group of passionate entrepreneurs who aim to rehabilitate the Southern oyster’s image, uplift their communities, and improve the local ecosystem.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days immersing myself on the farms. With rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I excitedly set out for the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
Day One: On the Gulf
On a beautiful early morning, Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company greets me at South Tampa Bay. His young associate, Reid Ballard, pilots us to their lease as Smith shares that he and his wife Maura essentially stumbled into oyster farming by exclaiming, “Hey, we should try this!”
“My family has always loved seafood, so it felt like a natural path for us,” Smith says, gesturing toward the sparkling waters and bright blue skies. “And it’s hard to beat the view from the office.”
In the Southeast, most oyster farms operate “off-bottom” in estuaries, where the ebb and flow of tides continuously replenish nutrients. We can see floating cages bobbing ahead, with mesh bags containing oysters at various growth stages.
The main focus today is harvesting. Pulling up a cage to retrieve a flattened bag proves to be quite labor-intensive. Numerous marine creatures cling to the cage structures, including seaweed, crabs, and tiny fish. As Smith points out: “Our farm resembles a floating reef now.”
The bags’ contents are sorted in a rotating perforated cylinder, separating the smaller oysters and directing those ready for harvest. Those smaller oysters will go to a local restoration initiative, Oyster River Ecology, to enhance the wild populations essential for the ecological integrity of these areas. Smith explains the distinction: “cultivation is for eating, while restoration benefits the ecosystem.”
This somewhat monotonous work of scraping and sorting encourages personal discussions about this way of life. Ballard shares what motivates him: “Cultivating an organism that sequesters carbon, cleanses water, and fosters habitat development has revealed to me the significant work ahead in preserving our environment.”
Smith encapsulates it well: “Finding a job that brings joy to so many is truly a blessing. Have you ever seen anyone not smiling while enjoying oysters?”
Day Two: On the Atlantic
At a dock on the Indian River Lagoon, I meet Nicolette Mariano from Treasure Coast Shellfish. As our boat glides over the clear waters, she shares that her love for aquaculture began at age 14 while volunteering at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center. Her Bachelor of Science degree complements her passion for her chosen field. “Being on the boat in the early morning, surrounded by the sounds and scents of nature—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees—is a joy.”
Back at the dock, her crew dons slickers and begins sorting; any damaged oysters are tossed into shallow waters, attracting various fish species. Mariano reflects on the advantages the farm brings to the community. “Our oysters provide an incredible three-dimensional habitat for young organisms; the farm is genuinely its own little ecosystem. Plus, we’ve generated numerous jobs for locals across all age groups.”
Facing the Challenges
Facing various obstacles, such as mortality events and intricate regulations can prove challenging, yet weather poses the greatest threat. Hurricanes can devastate the farms; for instance, Smith at Calusa lost a year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “It requires persistence, hard work, creativity, resilience, and adaptability. We find ways to overcome and continue moving forward.”
Support from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association is invaluable, with Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizing their purpose: “Shellfish farmers are among the hardest working, most resilient, and creative people I know. We strive to elevate this incredible, budding industry in the South and encourage everyone to participate. Try a southern oyster, support a local farmer, and taste the distinct flavors!”
Despite the myriad challenges, Ballard from Calusa represents the sentiment of his peers: “I wouldn’t trade this job for anything.”
This piece first appeared in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (US edition).
