Those familiar with oysters recognize that the northern shores of the United States are celebrated for their exquisite shellfish varieties. Enthusiasts rave about the Beausoleils and Wellfleets from the East Coast, while praising Kumamotos and Hama Hamas from the West Coast.
However, mentioning oysters from the Southeast often elicits disdain, with faces scrunched and heads shaking. “Second-rate oysters from warm waters? Count me out!” I was once among these skeptics myself.
But everything changed when I had a fortuitous encounter with Shark Bite oysters from New Smyrna Beach in Florida. It was at an Oyster South symposium in St. Augustine that I met a vibrant group of dedicated entrepreneurs committed to transforming the reputation of Southern oysters, uplifting their communities, and positively impacting the local ecology.
I was graciously invited to spend a few days on the farms, so with rubber boots packed and sunscreen applied, I set out toward the Atlantic and Gulf waters.
First Day: Exploring the Gulf
On a stunning early morning, I was greeted by Reed Smith of Calusa Oyster Company at South Tampa Bay. His young teammate, Reid Ballard, guided us to their leasehold while Smith recounted how he and his wife Maura serendipitously discovered oyster farming and declared, “Why not give it a shot?”
“My family adores seafood, so this pursuit seemed a natural fit,” Smith stated while gesturing towards the sparkling waters and clear skies. “Furthermore, the office view is unbeatable.”
The majority of oyster farming in the Southeast occurs “off-bottom” in estuaries where tides constantly refill the waters with nutrients. Ahead of us floated cages containing mesh bags stuffed with oysters in different growth phases.
Today’s main objective was harvesting. Pulling a cage and extracting a flattened bag became a labor-intensive job. A vibrant underwater world surrounded the cages, teeming with seaweed, crabs, and small fish. As Smith remarked, “Our farm has transformed into a floating reef.”
After harvesting, the oysters were sorted through a rotating cylinder, separating the smaller ones from those ready for consumption. Some of the smaller oysters will be donated to a local restoration project, Oyster River Ecology, reinforcing the wild populations that are essential for these waters’ health. Smith clearly differentiates: “cultivation is for eating, while restoration is for ecological balance.”
The repetitive work of scrubbing and sorting provides moments for personal reflection. Ballard passionately explains, “Nurturing a creature that absorbs carbon, purifies water, and establishes habitats has made me aware of the ongoing efforts needed to maintain environmental cleanliness.”
Smith captures the overall sentiment: “Establishing a business that brings such joy to so many is truly a privilege. Have you ever noticed anyone not smiling while devouring oysters?”
Second Day: A Journey on the Atlantic
At the dock on the Indian River Lagoon, Nicolette Mariano of Treasure Coast Shellfish welcomed me aboard. As we glided over the crystalline waters, she shared her longtime passion for aquaculture, first sparked during her volunteer days at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center at just 14 years old. With her Bachelor of Science degree, her appreciation for her profession runs deep. “I adore being on the boat early each day, soaking in all the sights and sounds—the ospreys, dolphins, and manatees surfacing for air.”
Back at the dock, her team geared up to begin sorting and separating; any damaged oysters were returned to the shallow waters, attracting various fish species. Mariano reflected on the far-reaching benefits of the farm to the community. “The oysters provide a fantastic, vertically structured habitat for juvenile organisms; the entire farm is a thriving ecosystem. Additionally, we’ve generated several jobs in our community spanning all age groups.”
Facing Challenges
Once the industry grapples with mortality events and intricate regulations, weather remains the most significant hurdle. Hurricanes can devastate farms; Smith at Calusa lost a year’s worth of work to Hurricane Helene. “This line of work requires determination, hard work, creativity, adaptability, and resilience. We constantly find new ways to navigate obstacles and keep forging ahead.”
Support for the community comes from the Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Association, where Executive Director Adrianne Johnson emphasizes their aims: “Shellfish farmers are among the most innovative and hardworking individuals I know. Our goal is to elevate this remarkable industry in the South and encourage people to get involved. Try a Southern oyster, help a local farmer, and experience the difference.”
Despite facing numerous challenges, Ballard from Calusa voices the sentiment of many farmers: “I wouldn’t trade my job for anything.”
This article was initially featured in the November/December 2025 edition of Thewindowsclubs magazine (U.S. edition).
